How-To: Fan adapter cable

Looks beautiful! Has anyone turned the heatsink 90 or 270 degrees yet, for more airflow?

Robert

 

Finally, with firmware 1.03, you can now set the fan to be permanently on.
Thanks to Udoo Team.

 

The fan itself could work. But the adapter will not fit. I got all my cables and stuff from ebay:
https://www.udoo.org/forum/threads/how-to-fan-adapter-cable.7081/page-2#post-27397

 

@ThomasOu, your fan only has two wires so do you leave the FAN_TACHO_IN (Pin 3) disconnected?

 

Firstly, my fan doesn't have a third pin, which used to report fan speed to board. Secondly I don't think leaving the FAN_TACHO_IN (Pin 3) will cause trouble, and it is truth also. It works well under 50% and 100% speed.

 

I'm not planning to use the Arduino pinout headers so this solution worked best for me. Thanks!

 

Very elegant solution @cagiva

 

I have installed this 30x30mm fan and run it (continiously) with 3,3V from the GPIO.
http://www.dx.com/p/bef0312ms-30mm-...ing-fan-for-esc-motor-black-dc5v-0-16a-227149

Running at 5V is also possible, but too noisy. Running at 3,3V keeps the CPU at low temperature.

 

@Sjonno Could you post a picture of the pins you used ? I was thinking of using a lower voltage as well

 

Here you go. The GPIO on the UDOO are labeled, so pretty easy to connect.
I made the fan connector shorter today to make it look better.

 

Can you tell the name of the parts?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332361111443
https://www.ebay.com/itm/121754915660

 

Though I still need to adjust the set temperature in the BIOS (I normally run headless and my TV seems to be incompatible with viewing the BIOS), this fan appears to be working well (spins up for some sort of self-test on boot) and is essentially silent. As you can see from the pictures (1 and 2), I made my own cable adapter for it, but re-reading the listing, it appears as though I could have specified the correct plug and gotten a turn-key solution directly from the seller.

 

What is the correct plug for udoo x86?




Thanks a lot

 

I’m almost positive that it’s C2, but I don’t have one in front of me at the moment to compare. I’ll try to look tonight when I’m able to. Or maybe someone else will be able to confirm before then.

 

It is this plug, MOLEX 51021-0300, example with cables: https://www.master-instruments.com.au/products/63147/CE-ZR.html
It does not look like one of the alternatives your supplier gives.

 

Looking at the pictures, I believe what you linked to is what the C2 is in his post. Without knowing the dimensions, I can’t say for sure, but it has the right shape (it doesn’t need to be 100%).

 

When I made the post, I was thinking of C2, but closely comparing the images with some spare connectors I have and at the link from waltervl, I don't think it's quite a match. The left C2 image shows a solid "ridge" along one side of the connector. The equivalent view at the link (and the known to be good spare connectors I have) show just a tang.

 

I believe that ridge is to help prevent inserting the connector the wrong way. I’ll have to double check o
When I’m home, but I’m pretty sure that there’s a notch on the UDOO to allow the ridge to fit into. What I bought looks similar to what waltervl posted. However, I can’t find a good picture of the connector on the board itself.

 

ImLagging is right, there is a feature in the connector that I think would align with the ridge. Here's a picture I took



I believe I have photographed the relevant side of the connector, but it's difficult to be sure. The complicated shape of the slot makes me think it's actually for the tang (i.e. not C2), but the ridge may fit, it's hard to say